Like Venice, New Orleans, and Brazil, Croatia has those days in the year when people sing, dance, and celebrate under the liveliest masks. The carnival in Croatia is called fašnik or poklade, and it falls at the end of winter – in 2024, on February 13.
Croatian fašnik always includes incredible performances with lots of laughter, maintaining specific traditions in different Croatian regions. There is also always plenty of food- which means lots of krafne. Happenings can be quite outlandish.
This article presents the Croatian customs related to fašnik and the most significant carnivals across the country.
Fašnik or poklade (Shrove Tuesday, carnival) is a custom of dressing up and wearing masks. It falls on the day before Pepelnica (Čista srijeda – Ash Wednesday). Pepelnica is a Christian memorial day when Lent begins. Lent is a period of 40 days before Easter, during which Sundays are not counted.
Although fašnik is marked in one day, it is usually celebrated up to a month before Lent. During this time, carnivals, masquerade parades, and costumed dance performances are held throughout Croatia. The peak of the celebration is the fašnik day itself which always falls on Tuesday, but the date changes yearly.
In the 9th century, the church declared fast on Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. The Sunday before Ash Wednesday was called bezmesna nedjelja (dominica carnis privii; meatless Sunday). People called it karneval, mesopust, or bezmesje. Meso means meat in Croatian, and bez means without.
In the 15th century, fasting was replaced with an opposite custom – the enjoyment of food, drink, entertainment, and masking. This is how fašnik (carnival) was born. After the period of abundance, we should be humble and modest before Easter.
Carnival days are a long tradition celebrated across Croatia. The point of the fašnik is to dress up and mask as someone else. You can become any persona you like – from a king or your favorite actress to an animal or devil. Some people buy masks in local stores since it is the simplest way. If you make a homemade costume, then you are considered a superstar. There probably isn't a person from Croatia who doesn't know that "fools are crazing every day, while the smart people are crazing only on Fašnik."
Carnival parades take place on the streets of Croatian cities. Masked people form a parade and do various performances. In many cities, you must apply in advance to join the parade. Dressing up and pretending to be someone else can be incredibly fun. The point is to be silly and laugh a lot.
The tradition of fašnik encompasses finding the culprit for the troubles that happened last year. On the final day of fašnik – fašnik itself, people symbolically burn a puppet generally called Fašnik. They find him guilty of all the last year’s evil. Puppet’s name may vary according to the Croatian region.
Croatian carnivals consist of numerous events. There is something for everyone. Programs include masked parades called povorka, fašnik customs, performances, movies, DJs, exhibitions, dances, concerts, carnival buses, traditional games, and local food and drink. There are also entertainment programs for children.
Some carnival processions are satirical in the first place. People wear provocative signs and illustrations to tease the ones who deserve it. To clarify that part a bit: it is an old Croatian custom from the 19th century, and a political satire to do the adore-described show. The carnival tradition in Croatia is strong, as it has been well organized for ages in different parts of Croatia. Amongst the best known carnivals are certainly the celebrations in Rijeka and some much smaller, but still worth noting, like on Lastovo Island.
In the part of the country around Zagreb, the town of Samobor is best known for their traditional Fašnik celebrations that have been organized for 192 years, and always seem to follow a well-established protocol. First, the carnival is opened and the Mayor fives the keys to the city to the temporary ruler, Princ Fašnik (Carnival Prince), who will rule the town for the next 10 or so days. Then, after those ten days, during the final Fašnik celebration his luck will take a turn, as he will be blamed for everything bad that has happened in Samobor, Croatia and the world since last Fašnik, and burnt in effigy as the final bit of partying before the sombre Lent begins. “The Trial” during which he will be sentenced for all his wrong-doings is usually a very merry event, humorous.
At the heart of Croatian carnival celebrations are the elaborate masks and costumes worn by participants. These masks range from traditional characters like the "Zvončari".
Zvončari (bellmen) are men covered with folk costumes made of sheepskin and bells who represent the Rijeka region. It is believed that zvončari dispel the evil forces of winter, protect livestock from spells, and invoke fertility. In 2009, zvončari were added to UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Zvončari’s customs may differ in design depending on the village. Some have small bells around their waists, uncovered faces, and a hat with greenery and paper flowers called krabujosnica.
Others wear big masks and one big bell. By moving in different ways, zvončari ring bells and produce a sound. They must be skilled men in good shape, able to walk miles. The movements they make to ring bells are pretty demanding. If you want to see zvončari, visit Riječki karneval. They look scary and silly at the same time. While their costumes share some common traits, various groups of bellmen differ in appearance according to the area they originate from. The custom was first formed in the wider area of Kastav, a small town located northwest of Rijeka, with several types of Rijeka zvončari donning somewhat similar masks. In the early 20th century, a certain historic event interfered and left a mark on the local culture: the Treaty of Rapallo split the Kastav area in two in 1920. The western part was given over the the Kingdom of Italy which introduced a ban on masks,
spoiling the fun for everyone and leaving the bellmen to improvise and create extravagant hats covered in paper flowers. The tradition is nowadays represented by the men of Zvoneća…Regardless of their place of origin, all bellmen wear enormous bells attached to their belts at the small of their back, with an occasional addition of a few smaller ones in front. When it comes to headgear, however, there’s no rule-book: flamboyant flower hats, long colorful strips of crepe paper, grotesque zoomorphic designs. Threatening horns, bloodshot eyes, mouths agape, sharp teeth, tongues sticking out… As long as it’s effectively horrifying, everything goes. Year after year, the deafening noise of the Rijeka zvončari’s bells keeps the evil spirits at bay.
In fact, Croatian people are quite productive in different ways of making noise after few glasses of wine.
Croatian carnival celebrations are not only a feast for the eyes but also a feast for the taste buds. From sweet treats to savory delights, carnival food plays a central role in the festivities, providing nourishment and indulgence for revelers of all ages.
Fritule:
No Croatian carnival would be complete without fritule, delicious bite-sized doughnuts that are a beloved staple of the season. These small, deep-fried balls of dough are flavored with lemon zest, brandy, and sometimes raisins or apples, resulting in a delectable treat that is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Sprinkled with powdered sugar and served piping hot, fritule are a must-try indulgence during carnival time.
Kroštule:Karnival in Croatia: Put Your Masks On!
Another carnival favorite is kroštule, delicate pastries that are fried to golden perfection and dusted with powdered sugar. Resembling intricate lace or twisted ribbons, kroštule are a testament to the skill and artistry of Croatian bakers. These crispy delights are often enjoyed with a cup of coffee or tea, making them the perfect snack to savor while watching the carnival parade go by.
Krafne:
Krafne are Croatian-style doughnuts that are eagerly anticipated during carnival season. These pillowy-soft pastries are filled with various sweet fillings such as jam, custard, or chocolate, creating a burst of flavor with every bite. Whether you prefer classic flavors like raspberry or apricot or more exotic options like Nutella or pistachio, there's a krafna to satisfy every craving.
Nevertheless, if you think that this is too scary, there is still the option of going to the movies with your friends, or just watching it at home, where you are safe.
Are you the one who likes to get dressed up in a costume or just admire the other costumes? Find out for yourself. Carnival in Croatia: Put Your Masks On!
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