Draguć: Istria’s Timeless Village with a Touch of Hollywood
Behind seven hills, in the deepest inland of Istria, halfway between Pazin and Buzet, emerges the hidden and enchanting village of Draguć. Seemingly placed in the middle of nowhere, squeezed onto the narrow ridge of a hill, it captivates you with its harmonious, ancient charm. Draguć may be small, but its reputation is far-reaching—so much so that it's often dubbed "Istrian Hollywood" for the many films shot here and the famous actors who have strolled its streets. Over the years, this quiet hilltop village has become a favorite filming location for Croatian and international directors alike, who are drawn to its stunning medieval setting and cinematic beauty. Draguć Istria’s Timeless Village
In fact, the village’s stone houses, narrow streets, and picturesque churches have starred in numerous films. Some of the most notable productions include La Femme Musketeer, The Pope Must Die, and even parts of Robin Hood. The charm of Draguć has made it a perfect stand-in for various historical European towns, and if you look closely, you might even recognize its iconic streets and buildings from your favorite movies. Walking through the village, it's easy to imagine a film crew just around the corner, capturing the unique atmosphere that makes Draguć so visually striking.
However, Draguć is not just a stage set for movie magic. Its true treasure lies in the vivid frescoes that adorn its churches, attracting curious visitors from all over. The sacred treasures housed within them tell stories of centuries past, while the cozy accommodations invite you to stay and soak in the stillness. Here, you become the star of your own story, in a place where silence prevails, waiting for the moment to say, Quiet—action! Istria’s Timeless Village with a Touch of Hollywood
The village you see today grew around a medieval castle, now almost entirely woven into the fabric of the later buildings. Draguć was first mentioned in 1102, in a deed of conveyance by the Istrian Margrave Ulrich to the Aquileia Patriarchs. Later, it became part of the future Pazin County, and over time, it fell into the hands of the Counts of Gorica before passing to the Habsburg dynasty.
Draguć has survived centuries of hardship, from attacks by the Ottomans and Venetians to raids by Uskoks and Austrians. The wars took their toll, burning the settlement to the ground more than once. But it wasn’t just conflict that ravaged this little town. Plague swept through its streets multiple times, and in 1855, a devastating cholera epidemic nearly wiped out the population. That the town survived at all is a miracle, and the fact that so much of its history has been preserved makes it even more remarkable.
Approaching from the old road between Cerovlje and Buzet, Draguć sits at 358 meters above sea level, a sentinel of stone keeping watch over the hills. Park by the cemetery, where your first stop will be the Romanesque Church of St. Elisium. This 12th-century church, with its striking frescoes dating back to the 13th century, boasts bold Byzantium influences in its colorful depictions of Biblical scenes. The alternating colored stone of the church walls offers an effect reminiscent of the great churches of Florence or even the Naval Church in Pula.
As you make your way along the village's only street, you’ll find yourself at the Church of the Virgin Mary of Rosary, built in 1641. Now serving as a museum, it houses relics from older, demolished churches, each one telling a story of Draguć’s enduring spirit. Just outside the church, a giant hackberry tree provides welcome shade and a perfect spot to take in the view.
Continuing down the street, you’ll pass the Captain’s building and the home of Antonio Grossich, the doctor credited with inventing iodine disinfection in 1908. A few steps further and you’ll find yourself in the main square, shaded by yet another grand hackberry tree. Here stands the Parish Church of the Holy Cross, originally built in the 15th century. It has been expanded over time, and its 28-meter bell tower, constructed in 1847, commands attention.
The square itself is a peaceful, quiet place, punctuated only by the sound of the wind rustling the leaves of the old trees. A fountain dating back to 1888 sits in one corner, while nearby, the
Judge’s table, or County Perfect’s table, reminds you of the village's important role in Istria’s governance—similar to the ones in Hum and Tinjan. Not far from the square is a defense bastion built in 1570, which bears two stone bas-reliefs. One depicts the coat of arms of Francesco Basadonna, who fortified the town, and the other features the Lion of St. Mark, a symbol of the Venetian Republic’s power.
Passing through a picturesque arched passageway, you’ll come upon the Church of St. Rock, a tiny chapel perched at the very edge of the hill. Built in the 16th century, its interior is almost entirely covered in frescoes painted by Anthony from Padua between 1529 and 1537. These vivid murals depict scenes from the life of Christ and the saints, blending Renaissance influences with folk art in a style that is uniquely Istrian.
Draguć may feel quiet now, but its stones echo with stories of centuries past—of wars, plagues, and near destruction. Yet, through it all, this little hilltop village has endured, its history preserved in every church, every fresco, and every ancient building. Walking its cobbled streets is like stepping back in time, surrounded by the whispers of the many lives that have passed through. And today, it's a place where filmmakers find inspiration, turning the stillness of Draguć into cinematic history.
Even though Draguć seems frozen in time, its connection to the modern world remains strong. You may find yourself walking the same paths that Hollywood stars once did, imagining their stories as you create your own. Whether you come for the frescoes, the history, or the sheer beauty of the place, Draguć offers something unique—an authentic glimpse into the past with the promise of your own moment in the spotlight.
Next time you find yourself exploring the heart of Istria, turn left off the main road, leave your car by the cemetery, and let yourself be drawn into the magic of Draguć—a village that feels like it belongs to another time, yet welcomes you as its newest star.
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