Motovun is a town unlike any other. Motovun: Where Legends and Charm Collide
Scrambled atop a steep hill in the northern part of Croatian Istria, it stands serene and stunning, practically begging you to come closer and explore. This guide will help you navigate the delightful maze that is Motovun.
Known locally as Montona, this hilltop village is steeped in history. Way back in the day, the Celts and Illyrians built fortresses where Motovun now proudly stands. Fast forward to today, and you’ll find a charming community of just 531 permanent residents nestled high on a hill that rises nearly 300 meters. As you wander, take a look at the inner walls adorned with the coats of arms from various Motovun ruling families, and keep your eyes peeled for two gravestones dating back to the 1st century—how cool is that? Motovun: Where Legends and Charm Collide
Let’s not forget that Motovun was seized by the Venetians in 1278, who surrounded the town with robust walls that are still climbable today! And it’s not just a random pile of stones; the walls reflect a mix of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance styles built between the 14th and 17th centuries. Seriously, it’s a beautiful town worth exploring.
Now, what makes Motovun truly special? Well, let’s start with the fact that it’s drop-dead gorgeous and boasts some of the best views around. And did we mention truffles? Yep, this place is practically a treasure trove of the freshest and finest truffles in Europe! You can also look forward to a delightful experience with the local wineries that surround the town, and—get this—it’s completely off-limits to cars. You can easily explore the town in a day, but you’ll probably want to stay longer just to soak it all in. Oh, and did we mention that it was featured in Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown”? If that doesn’t scream “you should check this place out,” we don’t know what does!
Motovun is a town that invites you to meander without rushing. Want to wander around ancient walls while soaking in the four corners of Istria? Go for it! Prefer to sip a chilled glass of Malvasia instead? They’ve got you covered. Or maybe you want to indulge in the region's best-kept secret: truffles? Motovun is your place. The beauty of this town lies not in flashy attractions but in the sheer joy of wandering its cobblestone streets and basking in the warm Istrian sun. Honestly, each street feels like it was crafted by a particularly benevolent god.
Now, if you’re serious about experiencing Motovun, wandering the city walls is an absolute must. They provide the best views in all of Istria, wrapping around the town and offering stunning vantage points over the terraced roofs and the lush landscape. Sure, it’ll set you back about $3 during the high season, but it’s free in winter! Worth every kuna, if you ask us.
The area around Motovun is buzzing with truffles, and several companies will take you into nearby forests to hunt for them with trained dogs. The experience is absolutely enlightening—plus, who doesn’t want to watch a labrador snuffling around for truffles?
Speaking of truffles, Motovun is essentially the new Shangri-La for finding white truffles. While they may not be cheap, tasting them is an unforgettable experience, and you won’t find a better spot than here. Most local restaurants serve up dishes adorned with white truffles from May to December, and you can also find them in the charming truffle shops lining the streets.
Let’s not forget that Motovun is encircled by wineries, which is a pretty sweet deal if you ask us! The wines here are predominantly full-bodied, fruit-forward reds, with Teran being a standout. Make sure to check out Benvenuti, Fakin, and Tomaz—they all welcome visitors for tastings.
As you stroll through the streets, keep an eye out for vibrant murals, especially the one of Veli Jože, a beloved local character from Istrian folklore who was a giant and protector of the town. The story goes that he saved Motovun from invaders with his immense strength and courage. He’s become a symbol of the town, representing the spirit of community and resilience. His mural adds a splash of color and a nod to the town’s rich folklore, bringing its legends to life.
Now, a little heads-up: Motovun can get pretty busy with tourists, especially during the summer months when tour buses arrive, whisking groups around the city walls, through truffle shops, and then off to their next stop without truly experiencing the charm of the town. If you want to escape the crowds, aim for a visit in the winter or shoulder seasons, when you can savor the tranquility and really soak in all the magic that Motovun has to offer.
Motovun Awaits
Motovun is more than just a charming town; it’s a vibrant tapestry woven with threads of history, legend, and artistic spirit. Here, the echoes of Veli Jože resonate through the hills, inviting you to pause and listen to the whispers of the past. Every cobblestone street tells a story, each twist and turn revealing layers of time that stir the imagination and ignite the senses.
As you meander through its enchanting alleyways, you’ll find not only breathtaking vistas and sumptuous truffles but also a profound sense of connection to the land and its heritage. The vibrant murals, including the legendary Veli Jože, bring a splash of color and a nod to the town’s rich folklore, reminding visitors of the larger-than-life characters that once roamed these hills.
So, if you ever find yourself in the lush heart of Istria, take the time to immerse yourself in Motovun's magic. Picture yourself sipping a glass of velvety local wine as the sun dips below the horizon, painting the sky in shades of amber and rose. Embrace the tranquil moments when the summer crowds have thinned, and the town reveals its intimate charm.
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