Nesactium: The Lost Capital of Ancient Istria
- T.B.
- Mar 8
- 11 min read
In a picturesque corner of the Istrian peninsula, just 12 kilometers from modern-day Pula, lie the ruins of the once magnificent city of Nesactium (Nesactium). For many tourists, these ancient stones remain unnoticed, lost among the region's more popular attractions. Yet it was here that the heart of pre-Roman Istria beat, and one of the most dramatic chapters in the peninsula's history unfolded. This is a place where the past literally emerges through the earth, telling the story of people who lived, loved, and fought on this land long before the Romans, Venetians, and other empires arrived.
The Cradle of Istrian Civilization Nesactium: The Lost Capital of Ancient Istria
Archaeological evidence indicates that the first settlements on the site of Nesactium appeared in the Bronze Age, around 1800 BCE. However, the flourishing of this place occurred during the Iron Age (approximately from 1000 BCE), when Nesactium transformed into the largest and most significant city of the Histri (Istrians) — the tribe that gave its name to the entire peninsula.
The Histri were not a homogeneous group — rather, they were an alliance of related tribes united by a common culture and interests. They spoke a language that probably belonged to the Venetic group, although some researchers suggest connections with the Illyrians or even the Etruscans. Unfortunately, their language has not been preserved in written sources, leaving room for scholarly discussions.
The city occupied a strategic position on a hilltop with a magnificent view of Bado Bay and the mouth of the Raša River (Arsia). This location was not accidental — it allowed control of maritime trade routes along the eastern Adriatic coast while simultaneously protecting the city from unexpected attacks. Nesactium was surrounded by powerful stone walls, built in the characteristic Histrian dry-stone technique. Parts of these fortifications, dating to approximately the 7th-6th centuries BCE, have survived to this day, impressing with their size and quality of execution.
Within these fortifications were residential quarters, temples, and public buildings. The city had a clear layout, with a main street running north to south, and several cross streets. In the central part was a square, which can be considered a prototype of the later Roman forums — here gatherings, religious ceremonies, and probably trade took place.
Archaeological findings from Nesactium, including pottery, bronze items, and stone sculptures, speak of a developed culture and the extensive trade connections of the Histrians. The pottery discovered here includes both local products and imported Greek and Etruscan vases, testifying to contacts with more developed Mediterranean civilizations.
Particularly interesting are the stone urns with relief images found here, dating to the 6th-5th centuries BCE. These images represent a unique combination of local artistic traditions with influences from Greek and Etruscan art. They depict hunting scenes, ritual processions, and mythological subjects, the interpretation of which still provokes discussions among scholars. These artifacts testify to the complex funeral practices and rich mythology of the Histrians.
Economy and Daily Life of the Histrians
The economy of Nesactium and surrounding settlements was based on agriculture, fishing, and trade. The fertile lands around the city allowed for the cultivation of wheat, barley, olives, and grapes. Archaeological finds include numerous millstones and olive presses, and analysis of organic remains shows that the Histrians produced olive oil and wine — commodities valued throughout the Mediterranean.
Proximity to the sea made fishing an important occupation. Numerous fishing hooks, net weights, and even fish remains have been found in the archaeological layers of Nesactium, allowing us to imagine the diet of the ancient Histrians, which included tuna, sea bream, and various types of shellfish.
Craftsmanship was highly developed. The Histrians were renowned for their metallurgists, potters, and weavers. The remains of metallurgical workshops where bronze and iron were smelted have been discovered in Nesactium. The bronze ornaments found here — fibulae (clothing fasteners), bracelets, pendants — are distinguished by their exquisite forms and delicate execution.
Trade played an important role in the city's life. Thanks to its favorable geographical position, Nesactium became a center of exchange between continental Europe and Mediterranean civilizations. The Histrians exported agricultural products, especially olive oil and wine, as well as honey, wax, wood, and possibly slaves. In return, they received luxury items — Greek pottery, glass beads, ivory products, precious metals.
Religion and Beliefs
The religious beliefs of the Histrians are known to us fragmentarily, mainly through archaeological findings. The foundations of several temples dating to the 6th-5th centuries BCE have been discovered in Nesactium. These structures had a rectangular shape and were presumably dedicated to various deities.
Judging by the statuettes and reliefs found, the Histrians worshipped a mother goddess, whose cult was widespread in the Mediterranean. This goddess was associated with fertility, the life cycle, and possibly the underworld. Among the findings are several stone statuettes depicting a female figure with emphasized maternal characteristics.
Another important deity was probably a warrior god, patron of hunting and war. His images are found on reliefs, where he is depicted armed with a spear and shield.
The funeral rites of the Histrians testify to belief in an afterlife. The dead were cremated, and the ashes placed in urns, which were then buried in a necropolis located outside the city walls. Items that might be needed by the deceased in the afterworld were placed in the graves: weapons, jewelry, ceramic vessels with food. The status of the buried was reflected in the richness of the funeral inventory. Nesactium: The Lost Capital of Ancient Istria
The Tragic Legend of King Epulon
The history of Nesactium is inextricably linked with the name of the last king of the Histri — Epulon (sometimes called Epilon). We know about him mainly from the works of the Roman historian Livy, who in his monumental work "The History of Rome from the Foundation of the City" described the dramatic events of 177 BCE, when the Romans besieged the capital of the rebellious Histrians.
By that time, Rome had established itself as the dominant power on the Apennine Peninsula and began expansion to the northeast, towards the shores of the Adriatic. In 181 BCE, the Romans founded the colony of Aquileia (modern Aquileia in Italy) on the northern coast of the Adriatic Sea, which became a bridgehead for further advancement to the Istrian Peninsula.
The Histrians, understanding the threat to their independence, fiercely resisted Roman expansion. Under the leadership of King Epulon, they raided Roman ships and settlements, disrupting trade routes along the Adriatic coast. This "pirate" activity was not just robbery — it was a form of economic and political struggle against the growing influence of Rome.
The Romans could not tolerate such audacity. In 177 BCE, Consul Gaius Claudius Pulcher led a military campaign against the Histrians. The Roman army, consisting of legionnaires and allies, invaded the peninsula and began methodically subduing Histrian settlements.
Epulon concentrated the resistance forces in Nesactium — the main city and symbol of Histrian identity. Nesactium was well fortified and prepared for a long siege. Food and water supplies, a protected position on a hill, and the fighting spirit of the defenders gave hope for successful resistance.
The siege of Nesactium became a real test for the Roman war machine. The first assaults were repelled with heavy losses for the attackers. The Romans switched to blockade tactics, hoping to wear down the defenders and force them to surrender from hunger and thirst.
The decisive moment came when Roman engineers discovered the water source supplying the city. According to Livy, they redirected the river's course, which led to a catastrophic situation inside the besieged city. Without access to fresh water, the defenders' position became hopeless.
When the Histrians saw that the fall of the city was inevitable, a terrible scene unfolded, described in detail by Livy. Here's how he describes these events: "The Histrians, driven to their last refuge, killed their wives and children in front of the enemy, preferring to see them dead than in slavery. During the massacre, some threw themselves from high walls, others, exposing their throats, accepted death from the swords of their compatriots."
King Epulon, unwilling to surrender and become an ornament in a Roman consul's triumphal procession, committed suicide on the city walls in full view of the advancing Romans. This dramatic gesture became a symbol of the indomitable Histrian spirit in the face of a powerful enemy.
Local legend, passed down from generation to generation, adds additional details to this story. According to it, before his death, Epulon ascended to the highest point of the city fortifications and, raising his hands to the sky, cursed the Romans and all future conquerors of the Histrian land. He predicted that foreigners would never be happy on the land of the Histri, that it would reject them as a body rejects a splinter, and that the spirit of freedom would never leave this region.
Some superstitious locals still believe that the restless spirit of King Epulon sometimes appears among the ruins on moonless nights. They say he can be seen standing on the remains of the walls, sword in hand, facing west — towards Rome. Others claim that on particularly quiet nights, one can hear his whisper telling ancient stories about the glory and valor of the Histrian people.
The poignant story of Epulon and the last defenders of Nesactium, who preferred death to slavery, has inspired many poets, artists, and composers. In the 19th century, during the rise of national consciousness in Istria, the image of Epulon became a symbol of the struggle for freedom and the preservation of cultural identity. Croatian poet and public figure Matko Laginja wrote the drama "Epulon, King of Istria," which is still performed in theaters across the region. And in 1970, Croatian composer Ivan Matetić-Ronjgov created the opera "Epulon," which premiered in Rijeka.
The Roman Period and Subsequent Fate
After the fall of Nesactium, the Romans established complete control over Istria. According to Livy, 5,632 Histrians were taken prisoner and sold into slavery. The city was plundered and then burned. Nesactium ceased to exist as a political and cultural center of the Histrian people.
However, the strategic importance of this location was too great to leave it abandoned. After several decades of desolation, approximately in the middle of the 1st century BCE, the Romans built a new settlement on the site of the destroyed city in their characteristic style. The new Nesactium (Nesactium) was planned in accordance with Roman urban principles, with a regular grid of streets, a forum, temples, and baths.
Roman Nesactium never achieved the significance of its Histrian predecessor. It remained a small provincial town, an administrative and commercial center for the surrounding countryside. Nevertheless, archaeological findings from the Roman period testify to the comfortable standard of living of its inhabitants. Public baths (thermae) were built here with a system of heated floors and walls (hypocaust), an aqueduct delivering water from springs in the surrounding hills, and sewerage. Wealthy citizens lived in houses with mosaic floors and frescoes on the walls.
The religious life of Roman Nesactium was centered around three temples built on the forum. They were dedicated to traditional Roman deities — Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva (the so-called Capitoline Triad). In addition to the official cult, other gods were also worshipped here, as evidenced by the statuettes and altars found, dedicated to Mercury, patron of trade, Liber, god of winemaking, and Silvanus, protector of forests and fields.
In the 3rd century CE, the Roman Empire entered a period of crisis, which was reflected in provincial cities, including Nesactium. Archaeological layers from this period testify to decline — some public buildings were abandoned, and the quality of new constructions decreased. However, the city continued to exist.
In the 4th century, with the spread of Christianity, a basilica was built in Nesactium — one of the early Christian churches in Istria. Its ruins, with well-preserved mosaic floors, can still be seen in the archaeological park. The mosaics contain early Christian symbolism — a cross, a fish (ichthys), alpha and omega, as well as geometric ornaments.
In the late antiquity period, Nesactium gradually lost its importance, giving way to more conveniently located coastal cities such as Pola (modern Pula) and Parentium (Poreč). With the fall of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century and the subsequent invasions of barbarian tribes, urban life in Nesactium declined.
The city was finally abandoned in the 7th century, possibly as a result of the invasion of Avars and Slavs, which radically changed the ethnic and cultural landscape of Istria. The ruins of Nesactium were gradually engulfed by the forest and forgotten for many centuries. Only occasional finds of ancient artifacts by local peasants and mentions in classical texts by Strabo and Livy reminded of the existence of this ancient city.
It was only in the 19th century, with the growing interest in the ancient past, that archaeologists and historians "rediscovered" the ancient capital of the Histri. The first systematic excavations were conducted in 1900 by Italian archaeologist Pietro Sticotti, who identified this place as the Nesactium mentioned in ancient sources. Since then, archaeological research has continued intermittently, revealing ever new pages in the history of this amazing place.
Nesactium Today
Today, the Nesactium Archaeological Park is open to visitors year-round. Located among the picturesque hills of southern Istria, just a few kilometers from the coast, it offers a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the multi-layered history of the region.
In the park area of about 10 hectares, you can see the remains of city walls from both the Histrian and Roman periods, foundations of temples, baths, and residential buildings. Parts of the Roman forum with the foundations of three temples have been preserved, as well as fragments of streets with stone paving and remains of the water supply and sewerage system.
Of particular interest is the early Christian basilica from the 5th-6th centuries with well-preserved mosaic floors. The mosaics, executed in the traditional technique of the time, depict geometric and floral ornaments, as well as early Christian symbols. Next to the basilica is a baptistery with an octagonal font where neophytes received the sacrament of baptism.
A small museum on the complex grounds houses artifacts found during excavations: ceramic vessels, bronze jewelry, coins, and sculpture fragments. Exhibits covering all periods of Nesactium's existence — from the Bronze Age to the early Middle Ages — are presented here. Among the most valuable exhibits are stone urns with reliefs dating to the 6th-5th centuries BCE, Roman period altars, and early Christian lamps with symbolic imagery.
For visitors' convenience, information stands in several languages are installed throughout the park, helping to navigate among the ruins and understand the significance of various structures. Regular tours with professional guides are conducted, who can tell about the history of Nesactium and its inhabitants in much more detail than the stands can.
In the summer season, the archaeological park sometimes becomes a venue for cultural events — classical music concerts, theatrical performances related to the history of Istria, and festivals recreating the atmosphere of antiquity. Reconstructions of Roman gladiatorial combats and Histrian rituals are especially popular, attracting many tourists.
For those who want not only to see but also to feel history, workshops on ancient crafts are organized — pottery, weaving, making jewelry according to ancient patterns. Children particularly enjoy "archaeological" games where they can try themselves in the role of explorers of the past.
How to Get There and When to Visit
Nesactium is located in the southeastern part of Istria, near the village of Valtura, approximately 12 km from Pula. From Pula, you can reach it by car, following signs to Labin and then to Nesactium (Nezakcij or Nesactium). Buses also regularly run from Pula to Valtura, from where you can walk to the archaeological park (about 2 km).
The archaeological park is open to visitors daily from April to October, from 9:00 to 19:00. In the winter season (November-March), opening hours are reduced to 10:00-16:00, and on some days, especially in bad weather, the park may be closed.
The best time to visit is spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October), when the weather is pleasant and there are fewer tourists than at the height of the summer season. In the summer months, it's better to come early in the morning or towards evening to avoid the midday heat.
A visit to Nesactium can be combined with an excursion to other historical sites in southeastern Istria — the medieval town of Labin with its well-preserved historic center, the ancient Roman amphitheater in Pula, or the Byzantine mosaics in the Basilica of St. Euphrasius in Poreč.
Conclusion
Visiting Nesactium is a journey into the depths of Istrian history, an opportunity to touch an ancient culture that flourished here long before the arrival of Romans, Venetians, and all subsequent rulers of this land. It is a place where history comes alive, where you can trace the change of epochs, cultures, and religions that have shaped the face of the peninsula over millennia.
In the silence of these ancient stones, under the whisper of the Mediterranean wind, you can still hear echoes of the heroic and tragic history of King Epulon and his people, desperately defending their freedom and identity in the face of a mighty empire. This story, full of drama and human passions, reminds us of the fragility of civilizations and the enduring value of freedom.
If you plan to visit Istria and are interested in history, be sure to find time to visit Nesactium — a place where the peninsula's past finds its voice, and legends become tangible. Here, among the ruins of the ancient capital of the Histri, history ceases to be an abstract science and becomes a living, breathing narrative about people who once walked this land, loved, dreamed, and fought for their ideals.
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