Off the Beaten Path: A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
There’s something magical about leaving the busy coastline behind and heading inland, away from the usual tourist crowds. Today, we’re trading the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s seaside for a more intimate adventure—a journey from one picturesque hilltop to another, discovering the heart (and stomach) of Istria. A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
Our day starts by saying goodbye to the sea, with its crowded beaches and bustling cafes. As we drive inland, the road takes us through the stunning Mirna Valley, where the landscape begins to change. Rolling hills rise on either side, dotted with vineyards and olive groves. It feels like stepping into a painting—one of those you imagine in a sleepy Mediterranean countryside where time moves a little slower.
First Stop: Oprtalj—A Hilltop Hidden Treasure A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
Our first destination is Oprtalj, a town perched high on a hill, offering panoramic views that you just won’t find at the coast. Oprtalj is small, quaint, and full of charm—perfect for a leisurely walk. As you stroll through its narrow, stone-paved streets, you’ll pass by old stone houses with crumbling facades, but there’s something enchanting about their faded beauty. There’s even a little antique shop tucked into a corner, where you might just find a hidden treasure.
Oprtalj is the kind of town that whispers stories of simpler times. It’s quiet—almost meditative—but that’s its charm. You’re not here for anything flashy; you’re here for the peace, the views, and the feeling of stepping back in time.
Coffee and Olive Oil at Ipsa A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
Leaving Oprtalj behind, we head down the hill to Ipsa, one of Croatia’s most famous olive oil producers. Here, we stop for a cup of coffee at a café attached to their olive shop. And it’s not just any view—this is the kind of panorama you take photos of to make everyone back home jealous. The olive groves stretch out before you, and there’s something incredibly soothing
about sipping your coffee while the Istrian sun bathes the landscape in warm light.
But the real star of the show here is the olive oil. Ipsa is known for producing some of the finest olive oil in Croatia, and you can’t leave without sampling it. A tasting of their olive oil is almost a ritual—each flavor rich, distinct, and incredibly smooth. It’s liquid gold, as they say.
Up Next: Motovun—The Town of Truffles and Giants
After our olive oil and coffee break, we climb the next hill, heading toward Motovun. Now, this town isn’t exactly a secret among tourists, but there’s a reason it draws so many people in. Motovun is famous for its truffles, and as you stroll through its medieval streets, you’ll be tempted by shops selling everything truffle—from truffle-infused oils to truffle pasta. You can even buy fresh truffles to take home.
Motovun feels like a place out of a fairy tale. Cobbled streets, ancient walls, and breathtaking views over the valley below—it’s no wonder it has become a must-visit spot. And here’s a tip: make sure to stop for a small lunch at one of the local restaurants. The pasta with truffles is something you simply can’t miss, especially paired with a glass of Istrian wine.
But Motovun is more than just food. It’s a town steeped in legends, the most famous of which is Veli Jože, the local giant. According to the story, Veli Jože was a gentle giant who helped the people of Motovun with heavy lifting, but was always treated unfairly by his masters. The legend of Veli Jože is woven into the very fabric of the town, adding a touch of whimsy to your visit.
A Cocktail at San Canzian A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
Before we call it a day, there’s just one more stop—San Canzian, where we can enjoy a cocktail while soaking in the last moments of this perfect Istrian day. The setting is idyllic, with views that stretch on forever, and the drinks? Well, they’re the perfect cap to a day spent exploring the hidden culinary gems of Istria.
A Quick Stop at Momjan Castle
Next, we drive down the hill from Motovun and head towards Momjan, a small village known for its wine and castles. Just before we dive into the wine, we make a quick stop at Momjan Castle. You won’t need more than five minutes to explore the ruins, but the views are worth every second. From the top, you can see vineyards stretching out for miles—our next destination, in fact.
Wine Tasting at Kozlović Winery A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
After a scenic drive down from Motovun, the next stop is the famous Kozlović Winery. Set against the backdrop of lush vineyards and rolling hills, this winery is a perfect place to slow down and savor the flavors of Istria. While you’re there, we highly recommend trying a sip of their Kozlović Malvazija 2022. It comes to the finish with these refreshing, salty-tasty flavors that are simply unforgettable. Imagine a taste that’s mineral and unusual—but, dare we say, sexy—like fruity lime with very fine sea waves. This is not your ordinary white wine; it’s like a cool breeze in a glass.
For something a little deeper, ask for the Kozlović Selekcija Malvazija 2020. It’s bottled like the fresh Malvazija but held for a full year, giving it time to develop even more complexity. The aromas are richer, and the minerality and salty nuances shine through. It’s like a bottled ticket for a short mental trip to the coast. One sip, and you can almost feel the sea breeze and hear the waves crashing—without ever leaving the table. You’ll sip, savor, and maybe even buy a bottle or two to take home. And while you're there, don't miss the opportunity to take a moment outside with a glass in hand, looking out over the vineyards. It’s the kind of scene that sticks with you.
The Grand Finale: Stari Podrum A One-Day Gourmet Journey through Istria's Hills
As the sun begins to set, we make our way to our final stop—Stari Podrum. Now, this isn’t just any restaurant. Located just outside the hill town of Buje, Stari Podrum is what dreams are made of. You know those places you visit once and can’t stop thinking about? That’s Stari Podrum. It’s the kind of place you return to over and over, hoping it’ll be just as magical as the first time. And trust me, it never disappoints.
This family-run restaurant is my idea of heaven on earth. Everything about it is perfect, from the white tablecloths and thoughtful centerpieces to the welcoming vibe that makes you feel like a regular from the moment you walk in. You can linger here for hours—trust me, you will—and there’s no better way to end the day than with a glass of local wine and a plate of their famous truffle steak. Now, while the truffle steak and pasta are undoubtedly the stars of the menu at Stari Podrum, don’t overlook their seasonal specials. If you're lucky enough to visit during the right time of year, you have to try the asparagus soup. It’s rich, creamy, and bursting with flavor, made from the freshest local asparagus that only comes around in season. Another hidden gem is their garlic soup—don’t let the name fool you. It’s surprisingly delicate, with a deep, roasted flavor that leaves you wanting more.
And for dessert? While the panna cotta might be calling your name, let me tempt you with something a little different: their tiramisu with quince. This twist on the classic Italian dessert is absolute heaven. The quince adds a touch of sweetness and a slight tang, making it a perfect end to a meal filled with Istrian delights. Trust me, you’ll be planning your next trip back before you even leave the table!
So, the next time you find yourself in Croatia, leave the tourist hotspots behind and venture into the hills. Istria’s real treasures are waiting, and they’re tastier than you could ever imagine.
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