History and Gastronomy Behind Ancient Walls
Ston was known as "Stagnum," which translates to "still water." However, it was in 1333 that Ston's destiny took a significant turn. Dubrovnik, already a thriving trading center, recognized the immense economic potential of the Pelješac peninsula, where Ston
is situated, and decided to acquire it for its valuable salt reserves. This strategic decision marked the beginning of a glorious chapter in Ston's history. Understanding the strategic importance of the salt pans, Dubrovnik
wasted no time in securing its newly acquired treasure. To safeguard salt production and ensure a steady income stream, the city built an impressive seven-kilometer-long massive stone wall, which continues to awe visitors to this day, earning the title of "European Wall of China." This ambitious endeavor made perfect sense, as salt soon became one of Dubrovnik's primary sources of revenue, contributing up to a third of the city's income during its heyday.
Game of Thrones fans will love the fact that some scenes of this popular show were filmed in Ston. The town represented King's Landing as well as some of the Eyrie.
Ston city walls consist of the main wall and three forts, forty-one towers, seven bastions, four outer walls, and a water-filled moat that stretches around the western, southern, and eastern edges of Ston. The construction of these magnificent walls began in the early 16th century. Constant threats from the outskirts of Dubrovnik’s territory spurred its inhabitants to start building defense walls in 1333. The Big Wall (1,200 m, 3,937 ft.) at Podzvizd, built for protection from neighboring cities, is documented to have been constructed in 18 months at a cost of 12,000 ducats. It was subsequently reinforced by the construction of three forts: the Koruna Fort in Mali Ston, the Podzvizd Fort on a hill above Ston, and the Veliki Kaštel Fort near the salt pans.
In the Middle Ages, Ston had two centers connected by the Big Wall, which complemented each other functionally, both respecting the traditional orthogonal grid of streets and city blocks. Ston was built according to plans approved by the Dubrovnik government in 1335 and amended in 1370.
It is considered one of the best-planned and structured cities in Europe.
The town of Ston was built in a regular grid of streets, with wider streets extending north to south, and narrower ones running perpendicular, from east to west. The main street, Placa, also stretches from east to west. From 1333, when construction of the walls began, followed by the building of the town itself, the Dubrovnik government’s priorities were almost exclusively focused on the walls and towers, while residential and public buildings were secondary. This included the residence of the Rector of Ston, the Cathedral of St. Blasius, the Franciscan Monastery, squares, and fountains. The walls and fortifications were continually strengthened, heightened, and added to; streets were paved, moats were dug around the walls, drainage systems were installed, and the seashore and waterways were regulated.
Ston thrived until the fall of the Republic, after which urban and economic stagnation began. Degradation followed, particularly in the 19th century, caused not only by external factors but also by societal shifts, which are difficult to explain today.
One such decision was to demolish part of the walls to build a Triumphal Arch for the visit of Emperor Franz Joseph I in 1874. Not long after, in 1905, the southern stretch of the wall—with four towers, outer walls, and ramparts—was demolished by Ston’s citizens themselves to gather building materials for new public and private structures. That same year, the new owner of the Great Castle Fortress demolished its northwestern tower and replaced it with a two-story building in the style of barracks, which greatly marred the fortress's appearance.
Awareness of the value of this fortification complex took time to develop. After World War II, further destruction was halted, but any restoration required decisions from relevant authorities and significant funds.
The eastern part of the Pelješac Peninsula, particularly the municipality of Ston, is known for producing high-quality mussels and European flat oysters. Historical records show that European flat oysters have been farmed in this area since the 17th century, though harvesting began a century earlier, and they have been a delicacy since ancient Roman times. The Bay of Mali Ston is especially suitable for growing these delicious clams due to the freshwater inflow from the Neretva River and frequent winter rains, creating ideal conditions for growth. The best time to harvest European flat oysters is in March when they are the most meaty, coinciding with the annual Oyster Day Festival (Dani Malostonske Kamenice) in Mali Ston.
Thanks to its geographical position, fertile land, abundance of water, natural resources, and the short peninsula connecting Pelješac with the mainland, Ston became a significant settlement. The Ston salt pans date back to Roman times, over two thousand years ago. In ancient times, the region was inhabited by the Illyrians and Greeks, and from 167 B.C., it fell under Roman rule. This is the first time the exploitation and collection of salt in the Ston area is mentioned. The Ston salt pans are the oldest in Europe and the largest preserved ones in Mediterranean history. The diocese of Ston was mentioned as far back as 877, leading to the belief that it is the oldest diocese in the Croatian region. The name "Stagnum" (still water) reflects the natural characteristics of the area, including the salt pans.
The tradition of harvesting salt has been passed down for over 4,000 years, and the production process remains unchanged, relying solely on the sea, sun, and wind. Solana Ston consists of 58 pools, divided into five groups, as the salt-making process goes through five stages, lasting one to two months depending on weather conditions. There are nine crystallization pools, with all but one named after saints (Francis, Nicholas, Balthazar, Anthony, Joseph, John, Peter, and Paul). During the Republic of Dubrovnik, the pools Blaise and Lazarus, which have granite bottoms, were used to extract the purest salt, which was then sent to the Viennese court.
Salt is produced by evaporating seawater in large shallow pools during the summer months, from April to October. From the nine crystallization pools, about 500 tons of salt are harvested
annually. During harvest season in the Republic of Dubrovnik, all working-age residents of Ston and the surrounding areas participated in salt collection, as salt production was of immense economic importance, bringing in 15,900 gold coins per year—the highest profit for the Republic. Solana Ston, with its current arrangement dating back to the Dubrovnik Republic, is a top-class historical monument and a popular tourist destination. The centuries-old method of salt production in environmentally friendly conditions ensures that the salt meets modern quality standards.
If you visit Ston and its salt pans, you'll have a unique opportunity to taste locally produced salt, which is highly prized for its purity, flavor, and mineral richness. Food lovers and chefs praise its ability to elevate even the simplest dishes, adding an unrivaled burst of flavor. Be sure to take home a small bag of this "white gold" as a souvenir, a reminder of your unforgettable journey through Ston's salt-making tradition. Ston: History and Gastronomy Behind Ancient Walls
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